Tuesday, December 31, 2019
Visited Paris for the first time since 1963 (when Mom had me accompany her on a business trip)
DEC 11-13, 2018: Took a coach from Oxford to London to catch the Eurostar train to Paris. Taxi passed the Opera Garnier–where my Mom took me for my first opera in 1963–to my AirBnB in the 1e Arr. near the Place Vendôme where Karen awaited me, having flown overnight from Boston to keep me company. Classic bistro dinner at Aux Petit Riche–delicious razor clams. Next morning, walked to the enveloping installation featuring videos of Klimpt’s art, after a wonderful lunch at Le Servan. Strolled on to the Bastille Opera, through the hip Marais district, back to the AirBnB past the Louvre, the Jardin Des Tuileries Xmas fair, and Le Soufflé for dinner. Began my quest to see the great art museums I missed in 1963, walking to L’Orangerie and the magnificent Monet water lily murals and other great impressionist works by Picasso, Mondrian, and many others. Having loved my art history humanities courses in my UofM undergrad years, this was a huge treat.
DEC 13-14, 2018: Thanks to Pat Shiah’s suggestion, I made a reservation for the 7-course tasting lunch with wines at Guy Savoy (which I later learned was rated #1 in the world by La Liste). Truly memorable setting, cuisine (beautiful lobster timbale), and service (a gift course of salmon “cooked” on liquid nitrogen table-side). Chef Guy stopped by for a photo. On to Musée d’Orsay and their art by Monet, Manet, and other Impressionists. Shopped at Gallerie Lafayette with their huge indoor Xmas tree. Karen introduced me to her favorite Angelina with sinful pastries and unbelievably rich hot chocolate. Finally explored I.M. Pei’s pyramid at the Louvre and their magnificent works.
DEC 14-16, 2018: Shopped for tea at Mariage Frères and macarons at Ladurée before Karen returned to Boston. I toured alone the next day, with my travels hampered by the reasonably peaceful but transportation-disruptive Yellow Vest Protesters. (Throughout my stay, I had to walk over 5 miles/day–tough now that I drive everywhere in Ohio!) Enjoyed Centre Pompidou’s modern & contemporary art. Found an open metro line to Sacré-Cœur, but my poor knees had to carry me up 500 stairs to get to the surface! Fortunately, I found a bus to Pigalle and metro to Notre Dame. I learned that Christ’s Crown of Thorns is there. So glad to have seen the Rose Windows and cathedral again before the tragic April 15, 2019 fire. Worked my way to the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triumphe–where I was awed by the spectacular Christmas lights–and sipped a cocktail at the remodeled Hotel Prince des Galles, where Mom & I stayed for a week in 1963.
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